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Wyoming Clockworks
Service, Repair, and Restoration of Fine Clocks
| Servicing Your Clock |
Today I find that most people who inherit their father's or grandfather's clocks are totally unaware how to care
for these old timepieces. Let me state something that may shock you. Clocks do not run forever! They need
regular care and maintenance, much the same as your automobile. To neglect this is to condemn your clock
to premature wear and possible irrevocable damage.
People call me to tell me that their clock isn't running or not running right, and probably just needs 'cleaned'.
Usually they are dismayed to find out that their clock needs much more work than they thought, because
pivots are worn, mainsprings have taken a "set", pivot holes are ovalled out, and a host of other things that
most people are entirely unaware of.
for these old timepieces. Let me state something that may shock you. Clocks do not run forever! They need
regular care and maintenance, much the same as your automobile. To neglect this is to condemn your clock
to premature wear and possible irrevocable damage.
People call me to tell me that their clock isn't running or not running right, and probably just needs 'cleaned'.
Usually they are dismayed to find out that their clock needs much more work than they thought, because
pivots are worn, mainsprings have taken a "set", pivot holes are ovalled out, and a host of other things that
most people are entirely unaware of.
| A clock's greatest enemy..... |
A clock's greatest enemy is neglect ! To do nothing but wind your clock weekly, monthly, or in the case of
anniversary clocks, yearly, is the greatest neglect you can inflict on your clock. Clocks need to be regularly
oiled at least every three years, and total cleanings, which require complete disassembly and intensive
inspection and cleaning of small areas, to be done when determined by your local clockmaker.
anniversary clocks, yearly, is the greatest neglect you can inflict on your clock. Clocks need to be regularly
oiled at least every three years, and total cleanings, which require complete disassembly and intensive
inspection and cleaning of small areas, to be done when determined by your local clockmaker.
| Another enemy..... |
Another enemy of your clock that is present everywhere and in your home is dust ! Sometime back I was
reading that household dust consisted of 60% silica, and 40% dander. Dander is the flakes of skin and other
organic material shed by all living things, but silica is sand ! Imagine putting a teaspoon or two of sand into
your car's oil fill spout when changing your oil. What would happen to your engine soon? Dust will collect
around any oil on your clock, and as the pivot slowly rotates around, the dust (read "sand") is drawn into the
oil and inevitably between the pivot and plate, where it slowly begins grinding against the critical parts of your
clock. Once initiated like this, the only way to remove it is by a complete teardown and cleaning of all critical
parts. Worn parts will need attention, repair, or replacement, and bushings installed where pivots have cut
into their holes in the clock plates.
reading that household dust consisted of 60% silica, and 40% dander. Dander is the flakes of skin and other
organic material shed by all living things, but silica is sand ! Imagine putting a teaspoon or two of sand into
your car's oil fill spout when changing your oil. What would happen to your engine soon? Dust will collect
around any oil on your clock, and as the pivot slowly rotates around, the dust (read "sand") is drawn into the
oil and inevitably between the pivot and plate, where it slowly begins grinding against the critical parts of your
clock. Once initiated like this, the only way to remove it is by a complete teardown and cleaning of all critical
parts. Worn parts will need attention, repair, or replacement, and bushings installed where pivots have cut
into their holes in the clock plates.
| What I can do for your clock..... |
When I receive your clock in my shop and begin to work on it, I first check out the externals, that is, if the hands are
jammed together, movement is loose in the case, broken suspension spring, and so on. If the cause is not readily
apparent in these areas, I then remove the movement from the case and carefully inspect the movement for any
flaws. Should disassembly be required, I then do that and place the parts within an ultrasonic cleaner filled with a
specific cleaning solution that cleans and removes dirt and grime and brightens the brass. The parts are then
quickly rinsed of the cleaning solution and dried within a dryer that I use. I then inspect all parts individually by
hand to see where attention may be needed, make note of that, and then proceed to pivot polishing, wheel
polishing, and hand polishing of the movement plates.
Once the pivots have been burnished and polished and wheels polished, they are then lacquer-coated to preserve
the brightness and prevent fingerprints from etching the brass. The movement plates are also lacquered after
pegging and de-burring of the pivot holes and other openings in the plates. The movement is then re-assembled
after this process, without mainsprings, so that the entire wheel train can be checked for slop and end shake in all
the pivot holes. Areas needing attention are then marked with an erasable marker.
The next process is hand and machine reaming of any pivot holes that need attention, and then installation of
small metal bushings that resemble beads. They are pressed into place in the movement, and then each part of
the train is assembled within the plates and pivot end shake and other tolerances are checked and re-checked.
Sometimes a hole needs to be reamed out just a bit more, but the point is that I spend careful time with each part
of the train.
Once I am satisfied with the various trains of the movement, then mainsprings and the various levers and such
are installed, and the movement is then placed under power to be tested in the test stand. As I progress in
experience, less and less time is spent in correcting the various trains in the movement as these have already
been checked out in other ways before final assembly. The clock movement is then tested for a minimum of one
week, and errors, if any, are corrected at this time. Adjustments are then made for rate, that is, so that the clock is
in beat and keeps good time. Final cleaning of the case after the movement is installed is done, glass cleaned,
and returned to the customer.
jammed together, movement is loose in the case, broken suspension spring, and so on. If the cause is not readily
apparent in these areas, I then remove the movement from the case and carefully inspect the movement for any
flaws. Should disassembly be required, I then do that and place the parts within an ultrasonic cleaner filled with a
specific cleaning solution that cleans and removes dirt and grime and brightens the brass. The parts are then
quickly rinsed of the cleaning solution and dried within a dryer that I use. I then inspect all parts individually by
hand to see where attention may be needed, make note of that, and then proceed to pivot polishing, wheel
polishing, and hand polishing of the movement plates.
Once the pivots have been burnished and polished and wheels polished, they are then lacquer-coated to preserve
the brightness and prevent fingerprints from etching the brass. The movement plates are also lacquered after
pegging and de-burring of the pivot holes and other openings in the plates. The movement is then re-assembled
after this process, without mainsprings, so that the entire wheel train can be checked for slop and end shake in all
the pivot holes. Areas needing attention are then marked with an erasable marker.
The next process is hand and machine reaming of any pivot holes that need attention, and then installation of
small metal bushings that resemble beads. They are pressed into place in the movement, and then each part of
the train is assembled within the plates and pivot end shake and other tolerances are checked and re-checked.
Sometimes a hole needs to be reamed out just a bit more, but the point is that I spend careful time with each part
of the train.
Once I am satisfied with the various trains of the movement, then mainsprings and the various levers and such
are installed, and the movement is then placed under power to be tested in the test stand. As I progress in
experience, less and less time is spent in correcting the various trains in the movement as these have already
been checked out in other ways before final assembly. The clock movement is then tested for a minimum of one
week, and errors, if any, are corrected at this time. Adjustments are then made for rate, that is, so that the clock is
in beat and keeps good time. Final cleaning of the case after the movement is installed is done, glass cleaned,
and returned to the customer.
| This is a view of a German clock movement ready for inspection |
| Back of the same movement. Notice discoloration and tarnishing of the brass. |
| Inside of the movement. Notice the years of grime, dirt, and tarnish on the wheels and barrels. |